- #Gecko g540 setup for free#
- #Gecko g540 setup serial number#
- #Gecko g540 setup drivers#
- #Gecko g540 setup driver#
- #Gecko g540 setup manual#
When you plug the UC300 ethernet cable into the PC it comes up as a network, I renamed it and forced the IP address as per instructions – pretty simple
#Gecko g540 setup serial number#
When I purchased UCCNC I received a license file, this file is copied into the UCCNC directory and will only work with the serial number of my board, this means that for every board you must buy a new license.
#Gecko g540 setup manual#
The steps aren’t in extreme detail, because the manual covers it really well, and its actually quite intuitive This was the toughest part of LinuxCNC, fortunately it is a breeze with UCCNC. I used this cable to connect the Gecko G540 to the UC300 The rest of the ports are used for more inputs & outputs (a simple breakout board can be used) Then it was only a matter of hooking up the 5V power supply, and plugging in an ethernet cable. This was the easiest part, I connected the DB25 Parallel port on the G540 to the 26 Pin header on the UC300, there are 6 LPT Ports, I used port 2 which is the ‘standard’ port. Signals are slaved in UCCNC (covered further down)
Note that I use the ‘A-Axis’ to drive the second Y-axis Stepper so all steppers receive full current. I aimed for 2A and haven’t had any issues at all in the 2-3 years running. Basically solder up as per the drawing, put your multimeter on and turn the trimpot until your resistance is correct for the desired Amperage. I definitely recommend these breakout boards, they made setting up the steppers so easy! To work out the coils, just touch any 2 of the four wires together, when the stepper gets hard to turn then those two wires belong to the same coil. Steppers are stock Shapeoko3, but I replaced all stepper cabling with shielded cable, and soldered on the stepper breakout boards.
The UC300 requires 5V power, I found an old laptop power brick that supplies 5V and 12V, which works great for the UC300 and my Prox switches. I’ll detail this a bit more because I think it’s an upgrade that relatively inexperienced people can do, whereas I wouldn’t recommend the LinuxCNC path to a newer CNC’er. I have just bought a CNCdrive UC300ETH-5LPT motion controller, and a UCCNC Licence.
#Gecko g540 setup for free#
I still think LinuxCNC is incredible for free software, and offers a lot, I just wanted something easier to get working the way I wanted. the bitsetter workflow) to work properly. It was super reliable and I ran it quite happily for a couple of years, but could never get probing or tool changes (i.e. I found LinuxCNC quite easy to run the machine, but initial setup was really hard for me to get my head around, I basically copied other people’s setups and changed bits and pieces to suit my hardware. I got the XXL running well under LinuxCNC, I extended the stepper and prox switch cables so I could have the control box separate to the CNC. The Mesa 5i25 (not required for UCCNC option described below)
#Gecko g540 setup driver#
The G540 Kit including 7.3A 48Vpower supply, E-stop, relay, power socketsĤx breakout boards to set driver current to Steppers In hindsight the G540 is perfectly capable for the Shapeoko, there was no need for the 5i25. The Mesa 5i25 is a motion control card that allows ‘realtime’ control, meaning zero lag at incredibly high feedrates and step frequencies. The G540 is basically a parallel port breakout board with 4x 3.5A drivers, but in a small robust package. I decided to try LinuxCNC because it’s free and incredibly powerful.
#Gecko g540 setup drivers#
I didn’t have a huge amount of knowledge of drivers and software but my research got me to buying a Gecko G540 kit from an Australian distributer, and a Mesa 5i25 PCI-E card. I made the decision to upgrade the control system. During this time the XXL was released so I sold the original SO3 and bought the XXL – the intermittent disconnects were still an issue C3D were great, sending me new revisions of the (at the time very new) control board, new cables, and many other suggestions that improved the situation, but didn’t complexly resolve the issue. So my story starts with one of the very early Shapeoko 3s, and due to the old, poorly maintained electrical circuit in the rental house I was living in I had a huge amount of issues with disconnects.
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